CZ Firearm Forums : CZTalk banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just ordered my first CZ pistol today.

I'm wondering what spare parts I might want to have for it.

What Kydex holster for open-hip (right) carry (not competition) would you recommend?

Is it safe to shoot +P, eg Hornady Critical Duty and Critical Defense JHPs?

Also, if you have any other tips for me (I'm familiar with hand guns, just not the CZ 75s), I'd really appreciate that, too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
238 Posts
For spare parts you would want to change your trigger return spring at 10k and your slide release before 20k. That is the only 2 items that I see fail after many thousands of rounds.

Red Hill Tactical makes some very nice Kydex holsters.

All CZ's are designed to handle NATO 9mm rounds so plus P is not a problem.

Take it out and shoot it, the more you shoot the better it gets.

Also, unlike many of the striker fired pistols, CZ's like to run wet so make sure you lube it up, slide rails, barrel bushing and locking lugs.

And that is my whole 2 cents adjusted for inflation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
I just ordered my first CZ pistol today.

I'm wondering what spare parts I might want to have for it.

What Kydex holster for open-hip (right) carry (not competition) would you recommend?

Is it safe to shoot +P, eg Hornady Critical Duty and Critical Defense JHPs?

Also, if you have any other tips for me (I'm familiar with hand guns, just not the CZ 75s), I'd really appreciate that, too.
Dry practice (also known as dry fire) is one of the absolute best ways to get good with a handgun and it doesn't involve the time and money of live fire. Dry fire is a complement (not a replacement) to live fire. You can train and practice draws, transitions, reloads, and movement all without firing a shot.

Dry fire can also help tremendously with trigger manipulation but hammer fired CZs with a firing pin block require a special precaution here to avoid damage. Any hammer-fired CZ with a firing pin block (includes your P-01) has a cross-slide roll pin that retains the firing pin in the slide. Look at your pistol for a hole with a roll pin in the slide on the rear serrations. That's the firing pin retaining pin.

When there's a cartridge in the chamber, the firing pin stops on the primer and never touches the retaining pin. When you drop the hammer on an empty chamber (like when practicing trigger press during dry fire) the firing pin stops on the retaining pin. The OEM retaining pin is not meant to take a constant, heavy diet of those impacts. Occasional light dry fire won't harm the retaining pin, but daily or weekly trigger sessions will. There are two ways to protect your pistol from damage: use snap caps that have a cushioned center or place a small o-ring in the hammer slot (and over the back of the firing pin) at the rear of the slide. I prefer the o-ring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. My SOP is always to use snap caps when dry firing any of my guns.

About dry firing, I'm left eye and right hand dominant, which is okay to mitigate with pistols, but problematic with long-guns. I've been practicing dry-firing my Glocks (the only center-fire pistols I own now and use a DryFireMag), right handed practice much more than left. This isn't a one-off or bad/good day thing, but happening during the past week. However, I noted that my sight control has improved so much with the left that my front sight is steadier during dry-firing than the right. I'm inclined to switch to a left hand trigger for my Glock, which is good, because I'm left hand for my long guns.

My question is why this improvement (or decline with the right hand) has occurred?

Also, if I decide to put my CZ75 into long-term storage, other than using Renaissance Wax, a pistol sock, and storage in its original case, is there anything else I can do to reduce the risk of rust? And how often should I be checking it for rust?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks. I might be able to use renewable desiccant blocks, as I do for my silver coins, but, long story short, I'm limited on space and that requires extra work to renew the desiccant. Is the original CZ case and padding airtight enough, or should I buy an aftermarket pistol case for it?
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top