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I found a 12" drill bit extension at Lowes to use a regular bit and also eventually ordered the long drill bits to do this with. It takes 2 sizes depending on which guide rod you use. A 7/32" works for the poly rod or 1/4" works for all the steel guide rods. You need the extra room in the hole to get the big end of the rod around the lower lug on the barrel, the poly rod is bendable so it goes around the peanut quite easily. A drill with the 2 way bubble type level built into it is also a big help but if you take your time and make sure everything is straight you don't absolutely need this. The hard .380 plastic air line is also available from Lowes, the outside fits the spring pocket perfectly and the ID is perfect for a 7/32 drill bit.
Awesome job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
Yes. Once you remove the Phosphate there is really nothing inside the gun to protect it other than the oil. Getting caught in the pouring rain or accidentally dropping it in water would cause some corrosion to form inside the gun if you were not in a place you could get it dried out and oiled quickly. I do the insides as well and use some small stainless brushes to card off the rust if browning or the black rust/velvet if slow rust bluing. You will never have to worry about the inside of the frame rusting again, it is fully protected.
 

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Yes. Once you remove the Phosphate there is really nothing inside the gun to protect it other than the oil. Getting caught in the pouring rain or accidentally dropping it in water would cause some corrosion to form inside the gun if you were not in a place you could get it dried out and oiled quickly. I do the insides as well and use some small stainless brushes to card off the rust if browning or the black rust/velvet if slow rust bluing. You will never have to worry about the inside of the frame rusting again, it is fully protected.
OK thanks. I'm working this through in my head and wondering about little holes like the threaded hold to keep the mag release spring and tiny suckers like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
All those little holes get cleaned out when you card the rust off. I have done many of them over the years and never had an issue. Don't think about this too hard. That would be the only threaded hole you would need to worry about and as long as you don't fill the hole with solution you will not have a problem. The application of the solution goes on almost dry so it will not bugger up any small holes or screw up your threads.
 

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All those little holes get cleaned out when you card the rust off. I have done many of them over the years and never had an issue. Don't think about this too hard.
Thanks. You've inspired me quite a bit.

I am in progress with a pre-b restoration now.

I actually have another pre-b waiting to see how her sister turns out before she undergoes the knife. Then a 3rd gun thats going to undergo frame modification but will be hard chromed.

What about the firing pin channel? How do you card off that area?

Brown Vertebrate Air gun Trigger Grey
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Don't get any solution in that hole. If you put it on correctly you can't get any in there anyway but that would be the one place you don't want it. Nice looking collection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Heat it, wipe it and wait. Card it, heat it, wipe it and wait. That is about the size of what you do and most importantly don't get it oily between the stages until you are finished.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Anyone doing any modifications on their pistols? As an update to this post, this gun has about 6000 rounds through it now and after about 1000 rounds the accuracy on the new barrel improved and also obtained higher velocity reads on the chronograph. I would guess there is a break-in period for new barrels.
 
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