RESTORATION ON A CHEAP TRANSITIONAL

Discussion in 'CZ Pistol Forums' started by SPO1SHADOW, Sep 8, 2018.

  1. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    I just purchased a rough CZ 75 trade in off GB for a song. It has a few differences that would make it unique. No one even bid on it. That is not what I expected but I will take it. There is nothing better than a inexpensive project gun. If anyone is interested I will post the project as it goes.
     
  2. kashaV

    kashaV New Member

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    Yes please. I have learned a great deal from your posts.
    Thanks
     

  3. Earl_Keese

    Earl_Keese Member

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    Every time I take a break from watching 75's on GB, you find a good one. You'd think I'd learn. Would love to see you document another project gun. What makes this one unique?
     
  4. cntrydawwwg

    cntrydawwwg New Member

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    Can’t get enough of your tutorials SP01.
     
  5. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    This one has a unique extended slide release and looked in fair shape and was cheap. I need a truck gun and this will be it.
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  6. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    This one's rough and beaten up, just the way i like them. It has nicks and rust with the front sight battered and the barrel muzzle all dinged up.
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    No magazine and a broken extractor, just the way i like them.
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  7. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    After a complete take down and inspection the insides look almost new. As usual, carried to death and shot very little.
    So after the dissasembly on to the most irritationg part of an old Transitional, the beaver tail.
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  8. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    Before i take the Polycoat off i plan on doing most of the metal work. The irritating beaver tail is first. I use a medium sanding drum to start removing metal and smoothing and reshaping the sharp rear corner.
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    I remove most of the metal with a medium drum on a Moto-Tool, stopping often and checking my work. After each drum sanding session i shoe polish the whole area with thin strips of 320 cloth backed paper. The shoe shine will let you see the shape of the metal better by taking out the marks and gouges left by the drum, it gives your eyes and even looking surface to look at so you can see any mistakes before continuing.
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    If you are just looking to remove the irritating edge this is far enough. You can remove more and shape it into an upswept version but if you are just looking to rid the painful red mark on the web of your hand, which on this gun is all i am after, this has gone far enough.
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    Last edited: Sep 16, 2018
  9. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    Next i will drill the hole in the front of the slide for a full length guide rod and check to make sure the fixed combat style sights will fit.
    I am not trying to make this one into a show piece, I need a 100% reliable gun for EDC. I wanted something i was not afraid to scratch that would need a minimum of care. I will be filling it with CGW's parts but i am not trying to create a competition pistol on this build. Function, accuracy and reliability is all i am going for. It does not have to be pretty it just has to work. The finish will be rust and all the new parts will be mostly for function. I am not going to spend a lot of time getting the slide and frame perfect. I found that the firing pin was solidly rusted into place and needed to be driven out of the slide so i will so i will splurge a little and get the extended pin from CZisney land down South.
     
    Last edited: Oct 3, 2018
  10. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    After about a 2 hour soak in Acetone to help soften the Polycoat i put the painted parts in a plastic tube and pour on the Aircraft Epoxy Paint Remover. This stuff is powerful and if you soak the parts in Acetone beforehand the Polycoat starts to come off almost imediately. I usually let them soak in the epoxy remover for several hours. After that all you need is a rinse with water and you have clean metal. You will also need to put the cleaned parts in Vaporust for about an hour to remove the Phosphate coating under the Polycoat. You can get rid of any bluing with the Vaporust also. Vaporust removes bluing, phosphate and Parkerizing in a very short while.

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    Last edited: Sep 15, 2018
  11. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    Through the epoxy remover and the Evaporust and man what a rusty pig. This gun has a serious case of acne. Another reason not to try and make a show piece out of it. I knew there was going to be some rust but Polycoat hides a lot of imperfections.

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    The mainspring plug and the extended slide release came out of the Vaporust nicely unblued.
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  12. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    First carding. Not perfect but also not something i would be ashamed to carry. Most of the pitting came out. With the hurricane bearing down on us today the weather conditions are perfect for bluing or browning today. Lots of humidity with the 6 inches of rain so far today.

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  13. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    Barrel restorations includes removing 15 thousands about 5/8's behind the muzzle to where the barrel gets larger. This will let the gun run normally with a 10X bushing. Throating for longer rounds so it won't choke on lead or HP's. Fitting the barrel lugs to the slide, polishing the feed ramp and breaking the sharp edges around the chamber and finally adding an 11 degree target crown to the muzzle to get rid of the dings and pitts.
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    Last edited: Sep 16, 2018
  14. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    Carding #2, another shade darker and very glossy now. Color has evened. One more coat and i am done.
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  15. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    3rd carding and a deep dark plumb brown. Nice and even color throughout. All of the parts should arrive next week to bring this old girl back to life. Can't wait to get it finished and do some accuracy tests.
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    Last edited: Sep 19, 2018
  16. Earl_Keese

    Earl_Keese Member

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    Looking good! What fitting did you have to do to the lugs?
     
  17. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    The firing pin was not striking the primer dead center and the gun shot way high. Once i got the primer fire hole in the rear of the brass case to line up with the hole in the breachface all of this went away. It did not take much to get things to line up properly. Just a few thousands off the top of the barrel lugs and it was good.
    The first lug in front of the chamber was the real culprit. I put on a coat of Dyechem and it was the only lug touching. It was a few thousands taller than the second lug. After making them even the 2 holes were still not centered so a kept stoning off the top of the lugs until everything lined up and both lugs had full contact with the slide cuts. This is a fairly common issue with the older guns.
    I let the pistol rest for 24 hours with no oil to let the browning acid work off. Another shade darker and it will never rust again.
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    Last edited: Sep 22, 2018
  18. Earl_Keese

    Earl_Keese Member

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    That looks like a Canik slide stop. . .
     
  19. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    It could very well be a Canik. If it is i will be buying more of them. It is the perfect length for me.
    You are correct, they came on the Canik Stingray. Has a forged pin and a cast steel extention. I like it!
    UPDATE:
    It was made by IMI and offered on the Jerico pistols. This was an Israeli trade in and IMI is in Isreal so it was easy to obtain.
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2018
  20. SPO1SHADOW

    SPO1SHADOW Member

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    The Mailman delivers!
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